A small slice of Kolymbari history has come into our hands, courtesy of Afrata resident Hans Thoolen. It is a brochure in Greek and English produced by the “Professionals’ Association of the Municipality of Kolymbari”, enumerating the attractions of the area and providing an advertising platform for local businesses. It is undated, but was clearly published after 2001 (since the census of that year is mentioned in the text) but before 2011, when Kolymbari was incorporated into the municipality of Platanias under the Kallikratis reorganisation of local government. A map included in the brochure also shows the new National Road unfinished between Mournies and Kissamos, except for a stretch betwen Kolymbari and Melissourgeio.
Illustrated with evocative photos, the brochure waxes lyrical about the attractions of the area:
“The municipality of Kolymbari was founded in 1997 and originated from the unification of 17 communities, which include 49 villages and settlements.
“Its total population, as recorded in the census of 2001, amounts to 5,115 residents and it spreads over an area of 149,707 square metres. Its geographical position is polymorphic with approximately equal tracts of flat, half-mountainous and mountainous areas. The sea washes the biggest part of them. As each village comes after the other the landscape changes: the sea, the mountains, the plains, the canyons, the big rocks …. Alternating images, which together with the unbounded blue sky and the sun, catch the eye of the visitor. In most villages people are farmers and stockbreeders. They cultivate olive and citrus trees, grapevines and vegetables. They produce the most delicious olive oil, honey, wine and also very tasty meat and dairy products. In the littoral villages the locals are engaged in fishery. Tourism has flourished over the last few years as well.
“By putting together this booklet that you are holding in your hand, we aim at introducing to you our homeland – our Municipality. The place we love for its unlimited beauties but also for the people that live in it.
“These are simple people with abundant Cretan bravery and magnanimity, who – even in this hi-tech century – still maintain intact the traditions and customs of the island. The Municipality’s seat is in Kolymbari which is situated at 20 km from Chania and it is the place where all public services such as the Bank, the Post Office, the Magistrate’s Court, the Police station, the Hellenic Telecommunication Organisation local office etc. are gathered.
“Nevertheless, it has lost nothing of its picturesqueness as it remains always a small fishermen’s village. Down in the port, you may see dozens of caiques and fishermen getting ready every day to go fishing. There are quite a few beachside and roadside tavernas, which can always provide fresh fish and other local delicacies.”
The narrative takes the reader on a tour of the municipality, following the string of villages along Kolymbari beach from the east: Kamisiana, Rapaniana, Skoutelonas, Minothiana, Kolymbari and Grimbiliana (which is the elevated area to the west behind the Avra Hotel). According to cretanbeaches.com, Grimbiliana was the home of the feudal lords Gribilli. They had built a fortified tower for their safety and when the Turks conquered the island the family became Islamised so as to retain their privileges. In 1823, Ioannis Geraniotis destroyed the tower and killed the Turkish garrison.
Reviewing the municipality’s religious monuments, the brochure goes on to mention the Gonia Monastery, its foundation following a vision by Saint Vlassios at a shrine to the Virgin Mary which had been built near the Temple of Diktynna on the Rodopou Peninsula, and its subjection to centuries of attacks by the Turks. It also mentions the 13th century church of St John the Baptist in Deliana, with wall paintings dating from the early 14th century, the cave church of St John at Spilia, and the church of St Michael the Archangel at Epsikopi (the Rotonda), built during the reign of the Emperor Justinian in the style of churches in Ravenna and Syria. The latter church became the seat of the bishopric of Kissamos in 1818, under Bishop Melchisedek, who was hanged three years later by the Turks in Chania.
Passing through Afrata, the narrative takes us to the village of Rodopou, with its Venetian mansion, and on up the Rodopou peninsula, past the monastery of St John-Gionas, to Menies with the ruins of the Temple of Diktynna (700 to 500 BC) and another built in 123 AD during the reign of the emperor Hadrian. Then across to Astratigos, Aspra Nera and Ravdoucha, with its Byzantine temple of Saint Marina.
Finally we move south again to Kolymbari, and through the villages of Marathokefala, Spilia, Drakona, Episkopi and Astrikas, then back through Nochia which is famous for its excellent earthenware. The local pottery company, Gaia, has its workshop there, as well as a shop in the centre of Kolymbari.
In conclusion the narrative says “We hope that with our unsparing hospitality and the unequalled beauties of our homeland we can make you spend unforgettable vacations next to this vast sea and the wild landscape.”
The advertising section includes many names which are long gone, but quite a few of businesses which have survived the passage of two decades: the Chrispy Hotel, Dilinger (Ariadne) Supermarket, Melissa Cake Shop, Fourakis Bakery, the restaurants Edem, Palio Archontiko, Dyktina and Argentina, not to forget “Coiffures Dimitra”.