Regular readers may remember that a year ago we posted a report of a book launch at the Orthodox Academy of Crete. The book, Kolymbari – socioeconomic history and folklore by Haris Naxakis, traced the history of Kolymbari and the surrounding area from prehistoric times to the present day, concentrating on the modern period from 1900 when Kolymbari first appeared in an official census.

Now, a year later, the author has published a companion work: Kolymbari – A journey in time: the land and the people, which is essentially a photo album containing some photos from the first book, but mainly a rich selection of images from private sources published for the first time. There is a short message of greeting from the mayor of Platanias, Giannis Malandrakis (the Municipality helped to fund publication of both books), and a preface from the Director of the Orthodox Academy Dr Kostas Zorbas, followed by a short historic, social and cultural guide to the area. The main section comprising the photographs is divided into two parts, the first covering the period from prehistoric times to the end of the Ottoman rule, and the second the modern period from 1900 to the present day.

There are photographs of Ellinospilio, the cave near Afrata which was occupied by humans in neolithic times, Menies bay with the archaeological site of the temple to Diktynna/Artemis from the Hellenistic period, Venetian and Turkish architectural features in Kolymbari, as well as old maps and illustrations. In the second part there are photos of the author’s grandfather who was a tailor in Kolymbari at the beginning of the 20^th century, scenes from the German occupation, items from local olive oil production, a number of photos of the construction of the Orthodox Academy in the 1960s and conferences held there, and images of local shopkeepers and fishermen. The selection is full of nostalgic appeal for those whose families have lived and worked in the area, but also a fascinating glimpse into the past of an area strongly marked by history.

The launch of the new book followed very much the same pattern as the previous one, being held in the forecourt of the Orthodox Academy on 29^th July. As before, the event was coordinated by Matthaios Frantzeskakis, representing the publisher Pyxida, who gave a short introduction, as did the mayor of Platanias Giannis Malandrakis. Reviewing the history of Kolymbari as revealed in the book, the mayor said that Kolymbari had undergone many changes which in his view were mostly for the better, but that there was a need to balance progress with tradition.

The latter theme was prominent in the subsequent addresses by the director of the Orthodox Academy Dr Kostas Zorbas and the author Haris Naxakis. Both were inclined to bemoan what they described as the “hollowing out” of traditional culture in Kolymbari and its replacement by materialism and hypertourism. Addressing the audience, which they took to be representative of “Kolymbarians”, they suggested that it was their responsibility to make an effort to revive and promote the area’s traditional culture, though they were less clear about what form this effort should take.

Commenting on some of the pictures in the book, Dr Zorbas focused on the picture which is reproduced on the cover and on page 65, which shows a group of people at a conference at the Orthodox Academy in 1977. The conference, which was on “Socialism and Civilisation”, was organised by Mikis Theodorakis, who is on the left of the picture and was attended by François Mitterand, who is in the centre. It was on this occasion that Mr Mitterand famously visited Roxanne’s taverna in Afrata.

Local legend has it that “the French President visited Roxanne’s and ate her rabbit stifado” (for which she was well known). The real story is slightly different. Mitterand was not yet President but head of the French Socialist Party and, according to Dr Zorbas, what they ate was not rabbit but stragalia (roasted chick peas) and snails with tsikoudia. Dr Zorbas also said that the visit to the restaurant resulted in Mr Mitterand deciding that France and the Socialist International would drop their opposition to Greece joining the Common Market. The latter detail was confirmed to a current Afrata resident by Alexander Papaderos, the co-founder and then director of the Academy, who organised the trip to Afrata on Mr Mitterand’s request. As also noted by Dr Zorbas in his address, there is an account of the visit in François Mitterand’s memoir L’Abeille et l’architecte (the bee and the architect), in which he comments on the ferocious wind in Afrata, which he feared might presage a storm, but which his hosts – Roxanne and her husband “Alexandre” – assured him was a permanent feature of the place.

Another picture of interest which is on the following page shows the astrophysicist Stephen Hawking with a group of friends and locals outside the Koumentakis (Stavros’) kafenion in Kolymbari. The occasion was another conference at the Orthodox Academy, on theoretical physics, in 1998. During the conference Stephen Hawking was accommodated at the house which American writer Robert Fulghum had been allowed to build in the Academy grounds in recognition of his donations (he later funded the Academy’s library). Used as VIP accommodation by the Academy in Mr Fulghum’s absence it also notably housed the Ecumenical Patriarch Bartolomeos during the Pan-Orthodox Council of 2016.

On this occasion, by Robert Fulghum’s own telling, he had been curious about Stephen Hawking’s experience in the house and had sent him a message asking him “what he was thinking about as he lay in my bed”. No doubt he had been hoping for some crumbs of wisdom from the great scientist, but the reply which came back was: “I was thinking about my breakfast.” On a visit to Stavros’ cafe some years ago we saw a similar photo to that reproduced in the book on the wall, and Stavros confirmed that Hawking had indeed been a regular visitor to the café during his stay in Kolymbari.

These events, according to Dr Zorbas, were confirmation that Kolymbari, although a small place, is a centre of important international connections.

The book, Kolymbari – A journey in time; the land and the people, is published by Pyxida editions, Krya Vrysi, Platanias, 73006 Kolymbari (tel +30 28210 74104) and can be purchased online from the e-shop of the Chania Film Festival at https://chaniafilmfestival.com/product/kolympari-charis-naxakis/. The price is €20.00.