On Wednesday evening, July 19th, the Afrata Honey Festival was held for the first time since the end of the pandemic, at the old primary school in Afrata village – a handsome building set high above the road to Astratigos and overlooking Kolymbari bay, with an extensive courtyard in front seemingly designed for large-scale events. It was organised by the “Afrata Cultural Association ‘Peninsula of Peace’”, known to locals simply as “the Syllogos”, which had become somewhat moribund in recent years, partly because of Covid and possibly also through a lack of interest by the older generation who served on its committee. However, following elections earlier in the year the Syllogos had been revivified by an intake of young blood, and residents were waiting with interest to see what results this might bring.
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A day at the Elos Chestnut Festival
As summer draws to a close and the weather becomes more autumnal, the almost daily village festivals themed with local products – honey, sardines, graviera and kalitsounia, to name just a few – fade out and are are succeeded by sparser celebrations of autumnal products. One of the major autumn events in western Crete is the Chestnut Festival at Elos, which this year was spread over three days and in three different locations.
On the evening of Friday 28th October, in the village hall at Vlatos, there was a presentation of the new Kissamos Agriportal, https://agro.kissamos.gr, by agronomists Konstantinos Hartzoulakis and Poppy Kapetanaki, the latter being also the general secretary of the muncipality of Kissamos.
The portal (available only in Greek), is described as an instructional platform which aims to provide local farmers with access to scientific information on subjects such as correct farming practices, plant pests and diseases, environmental protection and advice on irrigation. Farmers can sign up to receive information on agricultural programmes, current farming conditions, job vacancies and agricultural events organised by the municipality.
The presentation was followed by a musical event: “Folkloric and popular excursions with Kissamos artists”.
On the evening of Saturday 29th October, in the former primary school of the nearby village of Limni, there was a presentation with tastings entitled “Chestnuts … the Taste of Autumn”, by executive chef Ioannis Koufos and a team of chefs from Chania, followed by a display entitled “Macedonia and Crete Party Together” with dancers of the Cultural Assocation of Athyra, Pellas, and the musical group of Giannis Menegakis.
The central event of the Chestnut Festival, which we attended, took place on Sunday 30th October in the main square at Elos, a picturesque village situated 560 metres above sea level and 24 km south of Kissamos on the main road to Elafonissi.
At the main event on Sunday 30th October, nutritionist and dietologist Ioanna Grybaoulaki gave a short address on the nutritional benefits of chestnuts. The children of the Elos primary school then took it in turn to recite pertinent facts about the chestnut.
The event, compered by Kissamos councillor Alkisti Xyrouchaki, began with a presentation on the theme “Chestnut … a nutritional treasure” by nutritionist and dietologist Ioanna Grybaoulaki , who spoke of the many vitamins and trace elements contained in the fruit and its contribution to a healthy diet. Following on from this the children of Elos primary school took it in turns to recite pertinent facts about the chestnut and its nutritious advantages.
Next came the presentation of an honorary plaque by the mayor of Kissamos Giorgos Mylonakis and the Deputy Regional Governor for Chania Nikos Kalogeris, to Elos native Apostolos Kyritsakis, a world expert on olive oil and table olives. The author of numerous books and scientific papers on the subject, Mr Kyritsakis is Professor in Food Science at Michigan State University in the U.S., and Director of the School of Food Technology and Nutrition in the Technical University of Thessaloniki. He has done extensive research on the hydrolytic and oxidative deterioration of olive oil, as well as the determination of its phenolic components.
The mayor of Kissamos, Giorgos Mylonakis, reads the dedication on an honorary plaque presented to local olive expert Apostolos Kyritsakis (centre). Looking on is the Deputy Regional Governor for Chania Nikos Kalogeris.
At 1.00 pm, the event transitioned into a celebration in music and dance which was to last the rest of the day. There was dancing by the Vrachofori (literally the “breeches wearers”) of Kissamos, the “Kissamos” Cretan Dance Association, the Cultural Assocation of Athyra, Pellas, and the Folklore Group of Chania. They were accompanied by popular local musician Ilias Horeftakis and his group, and later in the day professional dancers and members of the public mingled as they danced a sirto in the square.
Dancers from the Cultural Association of Athyra, Pellas, perform in Elos square. Below: After the main displays were over, professional dancers and members of the public danced a sirto together in the square.
The main street of Elos was lined with stalls selling local products, from bagged chesnuts to walnuts, olive oil and honey, while the municipality was dispensing free portions of roasted chestnuts from its stand, and the village’s many restaurants were full to bursting.
With its predominantly stone houses and the steep hillside behind the main street the village has a definitely alpine air. A stream runs down through the village centre, past the remains of a Turkish aqueduct and the Byzantine church of St John the Theologian which dates from the 14th century. The area is notable for its fauna and flora: on our visit there were large birds of prey wheeling overhead – they nest in the cliffs above the nearby Topolia Gorge – and on a short walk there were many different kinds of fruit trees to be seen, including not only the obvious chestnuts but also walnuts, pecans, crab-apple, persimmon and breadfruit as well as apples and pomegranates.
A ten-minute walk takes one up to a late-19th century chapel dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin, with a commanding view of the village and the surrounding hills. The chapel is notable for a gargoyle on the wall beside the front entrance – an unusual feature in an Orthodox church.