Full menu at the Afrata Honey Festival

In recent years it has been the fashion for local yiortes to avoid the traditional multi-course meal, and charge only a small entrance fee, leaving visitors to purchase their own food choices from a buffet. This has been appreciated by many who did not feel inclined to consume large quantities of meat and carbohydrate on a hot summer’s evening, accompanied by traditional Cretan music played at deafening volume. The disadvantage for the organisers was uncertainty about the quantities of food which might be needed, with many people restricting themselves to downing large quantities of beer and wine.

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A death in Afrata

The funeral was held at St George’s church in Afrata yesterday of Stefanos Skarakis, who has died from lung cancer at the age of 48. Coming from a well-known Afrata family, Stefanos was a shepherd, like his father Michalis and his brother Giorgos, while he latterly did a number of different jobs. For several years he was an able and affable waiter at the Afrata Paradise beach bar in the summer, and last October he was working at the Tzerani olive oil mill in Kolymbari.

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A forest of sea squills

In recent days, the countryside between Kolymbari and Afrata has become filled with tall spikes of white flowers on a narrow stem which seem to rise straight up from the ground with no supporting plant underneath. While they almost certainly appear annually, their profusion this year is unusual, attracting the attention of tourists who have been seen photographing them at the roadside, and prompting us to carry out a Google image search to establish their identity.

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The Afrata Honey Festival revived

On Wednesday evening, July 19th, the Afrata Honey Festival was held for the first time since the end of the pandemic, at the old primary school in Afrata village – a handsome building set high above the road to Astratigos and overlooking Kolymbari bay, with an extensive courtyard in front seemingly designed for large-scale events. It was organised by the “Afrata Cultural Association ‘Peninsula of Peace’”, known to locals simply as “the Syllogos”, which had become somewhat moribund in recent years, partly because of Covid and possibly also through a lack of interest by the older generation who served on its committee. However, following elections earlier in the year the Syllogos had been revivified by an intake of young blood, and residents were waiting with interest to see what results this might bring.

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Carol singing in Afrata

The custom of carol singing, which has ancient origins, has fortunately not died out in Greece, and all over the country during the Christmas period there are more or less elaborate rituals in which the local youth do the rounds of the houses in their neighbourhood to knock on doors and ask the question “na poume ta kalanda?” (“shall we sing the carols?”). On receiving the affirmative they launch into what is usually a single well-known carol celebrating the birth of Christ in a manger in Bethlehem, accompanied by the sound of triangles. The householder then donates sweets or money according to their inclination.

On the road to Afrata

On Christmas Eve this year the youth of Afrata turned up at our door to sing a carol for the benefit of the village’s Cultural Association: “Peninsula of Peace”. In return for a donation they presented an Afrata 2023 calendar (illustrated). It is notable for carrying a photograph of what has become a sort of local monument – a tree which hangs perilously over the road up to the village from Kolymbari.

Of indeterminate type (possibly a wild olive) it has been growing there for at least the past 10 years. Initially wind-blown but upright, it has gradually leaned further and further over the edge, presenting an obvious hazard to the passing motorist, and in particular to the KTEL bus which visits the village twice a day.

With the typical Cretan tendency to let things be when there is no obvious reason for interfering, the locals (or possibly the municipality of Platanias) have sought neither to prop it up nor to give it the coup de grâce, merely confining themselves to trimming it now and then to ensure that it does not obstruct the road too much. Now clearly in a precarious state, it will be interesting to see if it survives another year.

A video of the carol in question can be seen here.