Cretan wines are gaining ground in the international markets, it was stated at the OiNotika 24 wine fair held on the weekend of 24-25th February. In the last few years Cretan wineries have seen continuous growth, with the USA and the UK seen as major targets for export. More than 35 wineries with over 400 labels took part in the fair at the Avra Imperial Hotel in Kolymbari, offering visitors a panoramic sampling of wines from all across the island.

Speaking to the Haniotika Nea, the president of Wines of Crete Nikos Miliarakis noted that Cretan wines are now “much more comfortable on the international market” in comparison with 20 years ago. “That is because we have worked hard to promote what we produce and to build on the special characteristics which distinguish us from the others in the market,” he said, adding that there is a positive response from foreign consumers.

Asked which markets Cretan wines are targeting, Mr Miliarakis said that in Europe there has been a systematic effort to change the negative view that Greek and Cretan wines suffered from in the past, and there is notable interest from the UK, Germany, Austria and the Scandinavian countries. In the North American market, Greek wine has managed to achieve the placing it deserves with other quality products, while in Asia, export initiatives are expected to show gradual growth in the future.

“There is a lot of scope for development among Cretan wineries, which is afforded by the market outside Crete and outside Greece,” Mr Miliarakis said. Asked whether the climate crisis could put a brake on the development of winemaking on the island, he said that this was a challenge that the winemakers will have to meet with modern methods and techniques.

A blend of tradition and knowledge
Wines of Crete’s Director Dr Elli Gika told Haniotika Nea that over 400 labels were being shown at the fair, from more than 35 wineries from all over Crete. “Vines have been grown on the island for more than 5,000 years and today in the 21st century the sector is experience a new flowering and development,” she said, adding that this is due in large measure to the superior training of the new generation of viniculturists and their hard work in all the sectors of production: primary, secondary and tertiary.

This surge in growth has been helped by the creation of the Wines of Crete network in 2006, in which the winemakers have worked collectively to promote a common identity for Cretan wines both within and outside Greece, Ms Gika said. Exports have increased in the past five years while the OiNotika fair is now also being held in Athens and Cyprus. In a further effort at widening the market, activities are also being undertaken in collaboration with the responsible ministry in the US.
(Haniotika Nea, 26/02/24)

Crete’s indigenous grape varieties
Much of the attraction of Cretan wines comes from the indigenous grape varieties which give the wines made with them a special flavour. These include:
Vilana, a refreshing white found in the PDO wines from Peza and Sitia.
Vidiano, a full-bodied white with fruity flavours produced in Chania, Rethymnon and Heraklion.
Dafni, another white with flavours of the laurel which gives it its name.
Kotsifali, a fruity red, described as the Cretan equivalent of Merlot, found in the PDO wines of Peza and Archanes.
Mandilari, a robust red full of tannins, found in the PDOs of Peza.
Muscat of Spina, a dry white which is everyone’s favourite.
Other Cretan varieties are the whites Thrapsathiri, Malvasia di Candia and Plyto, and the reds Liatiko and Romeiko.
More information about the Cretan grape varieties can be found on the Wines of Crete website, here.

What is the difference between PDO and PGI?
Wines that are classified as PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) guarantee that 100 percent of the grapes were grown in the named PDO area. The wine must also be produced from start to finish within the PDO area, from growing the grapes to bottling and labelling. PDO wines are also required to have additional information on their labels including the aging times in oak barrels or stainless steel tanks, as well as fermentation in bottles before release. There also must be details of the winegrower.

Wines classified as PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) must be made with at least 85 percent of grapes grown in that area. The law governing the production of the wine is more liberal, stating that only one stage must happen within the PGI area. So, for example, bottling or labelling may happen elsewhere in Greece.

PGI generally refers to a wider geographical area, whereas PDO is localised. For example, PGI Crete covers the whole island, whereas PDO Dafnes is located in an area some 20 km south of Heraklion. PDO Dafnes is a red wine produced from the Liatiko grape.
(vinepair.com)